UKH

Rockfax Description
The best line up the main slab gives good sustained climbing that is never desperate. Start as for Ordinary Route.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the wall to ledges below a forked diagonal crack. Climb the right-hand branch of this until you can pull back up left to a ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up a shallow scoop above and right, past a fixed sling. A groove leads up and left to a belay by a spike next to a ledge.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb up and slightly left to a good ledge.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb up to a bulging section and pass this on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, High Quality Adventure routes, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Adventure ticklist 2018, UK Holiday Plans, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Colin Kirkus' routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jack Manfredi 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfall at the top of Ordinary Route has affected the route. There is a lot of loose debris on route, particularly topping out on the final pitch. We had the crag to ourselves and we’re glad of it. Please be Careful!
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfall at the top of Ordinary Route has affected the route. There is a lot of loose debris on route, particularly topping out on the final pitch. We had the crag to ourselves and we’re glad of it. Please be Careful!
Mike Doodle 29 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Don't follow the topo line in the little Rockfax NW Classics Pokketz guide (see Wrongfax Variant on here) - the pitch descriptions are correct though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't follow the topo line in the little Rockfax NW Classics Pokketz guide (see Wrongfax Variant on here) - the pitch descriptions are correct though.
Tim Francis 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top route, one of the best mountain VS routes in Wales?!
βeta?
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βeta: Top route, one of the best mountain VS routes in Wales?!
cpoad 4 Aug, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Care needed with route finding.
βeta?
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βeta: Care needed with route finding.
Rog Wilko 7 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great adventure, superb route - if you can follow the route description!
βeta?
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βeta: Great adventure, superb route - if you can follow the route description!

Logged Ascents

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 62
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Oxine

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Wenallt)
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