UKH

Rockfax Description
A good companion which is probably less direct than the original route. Start below the right-hand side of the slab.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a short slab (often wet) then a steep section above. Gain and follow a groove which leads up right until you can swing left past flakes and drop down to gain the stance of Kirkus Route.
2) 4c, 18m. Traverse left to reach a small corner. Climb this then step right onto a rib. Follow a crack and move left into another groove which leads to the mid-height break on Kirkus Route.
3) 5b, 40m. A long pitch. Climb into the corner on the right and follow it to an overhang. Move left to a crack and climb this, then step left. Climb the slab left of the corner to the upper break. Move right into a slim groove and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Kirkus Routes , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , Jonesy's leg day ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
galpinos 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the “crack lead to moss” comment in North Wales Rock on the 3rd pitch. Climb the corner to the roof, traverse left to holds and head up following your nose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ignore the “crack lead to moss” comment in North Wales Rock on the 3rd pitch. Climb the corner to the roof, traverse left to holds and head up following your nose.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Fang

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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