A great route which takes an intricate line through the steeper lower walls of the buttress, culminating in some exposed moves around the big roof.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the central of three grooves to a small overhang. Step right then climb up until you can move back left to a triangular overhang. Move left then climb up and back right above a roof. The stance is up and right.
2) 5b, 18m. Traverse leftwards to a block. Climb up the corner to a roof and pull over with difficulty to a ledge up and left. Traverse left to a corner and step down onto a ramp. Follow this across the steep wall to a belay above a groove.
3) 5a, 30m. Climb the groove to the top of a block. A rib on the left then leads up until you can move back into the main corner. Continue up this to a rest below the roof, then traverse right across the slab and up to the roof. Drop down right then reach up into a groove which leads to Sunset Ledge. © Rockfax
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