The one route that everyone wants to do. If it is in condition (rarely) then get up early and get ready to queue. Worth the wait though!
1) 5, 30m. Climb the icefall on the front of the pedestal to a ledge belay
2) 6, 40m. A long, pumpy pitch up the steep icefall above leads to a belay either left or right of the icicle, depending on conditions
3) 6, 30m. Tackle the overhanging icicle direct!
3a) 6, 35m. If the icicle hasn't formed thick enough for your mate to lead it, you can sneak left to join Chequered Wall, which is sometimes 'in nick' when the main icicle isn't. © Rockfax
Cold Climbs, King of the Pass!, AMC Uni Ticklist, Calum Muskett's Top Ten Welsh Winter, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)
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