Quality and varied crack-and-groove work. Start up the steep groove on the left-hand side of the central bay of the cliff.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove then move left to a flake. The continuation crack is good value and needs a determined approach, as does the exit. Move left to a belay on Creagh Dhu Wall's beefy tree.
2) 5c, 24m. The long groove is technical, sustained and well protected to a leftwards exit - more full-on climbing. © Rockfax
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