Restricted Access
A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May. It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
Quality varied crack-and-groove work. Start up the steep groove on the left-hand side of the central bay of the cliff.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove, then move left to a flake. The continuation crack is good value and needs a determined approach, as does the exit. Move left to a belay on Creagh Dhu Wall's beefy tree.
2) 5c, 24m. The long groove is technical, sustained and well protected to a leftwards exit - more full-on climbing. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Tremadog 2018/2019 , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Moles | 19 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bailed because the brambles had grown back with a vengeance on P2...I removed what I could with a knife on abseil later, but it could do with a proper job to try to get the roots out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bailed because the brambles had grown back with a vengeance on P2...I removed what I could with a knife on abseil later, but it could do with a proper job to try to get the roots out. |
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| petesdavies | 13 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slightly overgrown on p2. Would be worth someone taking some gloves or secateurs to remove the brambles. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Slightly overgrown on p2. Would be worth someone taking some gloves or secateurs to remove the brambles. |
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| Tigger | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brambles and Ivy removed from P2 and brambles beat back at the start of P1. It's looking pretty clean now and a couple of overgrown (but previously worn) wire placements have been revealed on P2. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brambles and Ivy removed from P2 and brambles beat back at the start of P1. It's looking pretty clean now and a couple of overgrown (but previously worn) wire placements have been revealed on P2. |
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| hpm2105 | 18 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lead both. P1 is harder than it looks but there are decent rests if you can body jam. Bomber gear. Top out is a little desperate (had to grab some ferns with the right hand). P2 is technical but good holds keep appearing along with gear. Currently slightly overgrown (tried to clean it a bit) but it doesn’t affect the climbing much. Also great gear. Top out is fine. Solid E2 but safe! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lead both. P1 is harder than it looks but there are decent rests if you can body jam. Bomber gear. Top out is a little desperate (had to grab some ferns with the right hand). P2 is technical but good holds keep appearing along with gear. Currently slightly overgrown (tried to clean it a bit) but it doesn’t affect the climbing much. Also great gear. Top out is fine. Solid E2 but safe! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
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The Great Corner
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))