Restricted Access
A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May. It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile trip up the left-hand side of the buttress. It gets a bit squeezed at the top, hence the name.
1) 5b, 30m. Start up the groove (as for Creagh Dhu Wall) but move left into the steep groove and up it to a roof. Move right and up to the big overhang then traverse out left to get stood on a rib. Above, the main roof beckons, but the moves are perplexing. Pull right, then back left to a small stance below a crack a little higher.
2) 5b, 25m. Cracks and a groove lead to the roof. Pull over the right-hand edge of this, then move left round the arete for an independent finish, or join Creagh Dhu Wall. © Rockfax
Al Evans, S Tansey, S Beresford 01/Jun/1979.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 193 | 8 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: what rock fax describe as an independent finish I the route a done by the first ascent and described in at least 2 guide books which say move around the arete to an exciting finish up the wall . rock fx make it sound like the both endings are equal | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: what rock fax describe as an independent finish I the route a done by the first ascent and described in at least 2 guide books which say move around the arete to an exciting finish up the wall . rock fx make it sound like the both endings are equal |
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| Pete_Frost | 2 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A number 4 Camalot (large silver) is perfect for the quartz crack in the top roof of p1. A small sliver DMM Dragon Cam (Yellow Totem Technical) fits nicely into the hidden crack in the left edge of that roof adding to the protection for the step left on to the sharp rib from the big sloping ledge. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A number 4 Camalot (large silver) is perfect for the quartz crack in the top roof of p1. A small sliver DMM Dragon Cam (Yellow Totem Technical) fits nicely into the hidden crack in the left edge of that roof adding to the protection for the step left on to the sharp rib from the big sloping ledge. |
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| SimonWooden | 7 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Owl chics in nest. See Creagh Dhu Wall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Owl chics in nest. See Creagh Dhu Wall. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
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The Plum
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))