This stupendous route is just plain hard. It tackles the slender groove running the full height of the crag via some intense and sustained moves and it regularly stops very competent climbers in their tracks.
1) 15m. Scramble up slabby rock below and right of the corner, then climb up, step right and then up to a ledge. Move up left to belay below the overhangs.
2) 6a, 35m. Climb up past the fangs then up the groove above to just below a roof. Step left into the main corner and make desperate layback moves up this to an overlap. Pull over this then continue up the still-difficult corner above to the top. © Rockfax
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