Steep and fierce finger-jamming on pitch one. Start below the big corner of Barbarian.
1) 10m. Scramble up to the tree below the slab.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb up left through a narrow chimney to gain the finger-crack. Power impressively up this, not forgetting to place runners, to a small roof. Make a testing move left round this and traverse right to the belay on Barbarian.
3) 6a, 25m. Climb Barbarian for 4m through an overlap, then move left across the wall on surprisingly good holds past a peg to gain Silly Arete. Finish up this. © Rockfax
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