UKH

Rockfax Description
Steep and fierce finger-jamming on pitch one, but perhaps not as hard as its reputation suggests. Start below the big corner of Barbarian and scramble up to the tree at the base of the crack.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up left through a narrow chimney to gain the finger-crack. Power impressively up this, not forgetting to place runners, to a small roof. Make a testing move left round this and traverse right to the belay on Barbarian.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb Barbarian for 4m through an overlap, then move left across the wall on surprisingly good holds past a peg (?) to gain Silly Arete. Finish up this. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Good E4s , 50 cracks to Squamish , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , James' 2015 Summer. , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Michelle's crack ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Definitive *** Tremadog , Proper Cracks UK , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime

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User Date Notes
Katiek 19 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Super fun! Bit of a finger biter but really engaging,exciting climbing the whole way up. Took a pretty substantial fall quite near the top and ended up quite near the ground but was fine thanks to rachel’s bomber belay skills! Was very exciting. Pulled the ropes and went again which felt much flowier although still a bit inelegant at the top of the crack! Pull over the roof a little tricky to read but not as powerful as the crack. Mega route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super fun! Bit of a finger biter but really engaging,exciting climbing the whole way up. Took a pretty substantial fall quite near the top and ended up quite near the ground but was fine thanks to rachel’s bomber belay skills! Was very exciting. Pulled the ropes and went again which felt much flowier although still a bit inelegant at the top of the crack! Pull over the roof a little tricky to read but not as powerful as the crack. Mega route.
George_Surf 1 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Forgot how good this was. Awesome looking line. Excellent sustained safe climbing up the crack. Was pretty pumped above the tat (crux for me). Turning the roof was alright. Took the top pitch this time. Quite tricky to get going (hidden wire/cam on left), didn’t have mircos but there’s some small (not crucial) kit, then it’s ok after the peg. Still found Silly Arête a bit scary. Save a blue+silver dragon plus a rock4, that’s basically all i got...
Show beta
βeta: Forgot how good this was. Awesome looking line. Excellent sustained safe climbing up the crack. Was pretty pumped above the tat (crux for me). Turning the roof was alright. Took the top pitch this time. Quite tricky to get going (hidden wire/cam on left), didn’t have mircos but there’s some small (not crucial) kit, then it’s ok after the peg. Still found Silly Arête a bit scary. Save a blue+silver dragon plus a rock4, that’s basically all i got...

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Guidebooks for Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 29
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Bone People

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gideon Quarries)

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