Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

45m. Start at the next prominent groove to the right (The Gross Clinic)
Climb the groove of Gross Clinic for approximately 4m, (small wires). Traverse left a few metres out onto the shattered steep wall, (poor medium cams). Boldly climb the bulging wall above straight up at first then slightly leftwards to a standing
Position below a prominent red coloured band, (good medium wire and poor small cams).
Move up to the red band, (spike & small cam) and continue up the slightly easier wall above into a prominent groove, (good rest and bomb-proof gear). Crux, boldly pull out of the groove over the roof on thin horizontal fins and climb the overhanging wall leftwards to gain a quartz groove by carefully using a strange hollow projection for both a spike runner and hand hold, (small wire and small cam out right of the projection). From a good wire in the groove step out to the right arĂȘte and climb up through overhangs until possible to step left strenuously to an easier finishing groove.

First Ascent: Stevie Haston (exact date to be confirmed)

Stevie Haston.

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Route of Interest
Night Stalker

Grade: E8 6c ***
(Craig Doris)

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