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30m. 30m. The clean upper wall to the right of the Tonight at Noon cave.

Climb the easy groove between pillars to stand on top of the left pillar beneath a v-groove and roof. Climb the v-groove before a hand traverse left for a couple of metres. Pull the roof above on big flake holds. Once stood above the roof, climb rightwards on big holds (good gear) until a massive crozzly pocket with a weird brown tufa is reached. Climb leftWards from the crozzly pocket, and once on the front face, directly up into a series of good pockets. Arrange gear, it's the last for a while, before a sustained sequence right leads to the fingery crux, a hard pull up, from a a series of small crimps, to a small flat hold and then a thank God pop for the big holds of the horizontal shelf. (good gear) Shuffle left on big holds, (good rest in big pocket) before the hard, but well protected final crack and awkward mantle.

Stevie Haston Sep/2009.

Ticklists

100 Worthwhile E7's

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User Date Notes
Mick Lovatt 17 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Outstanding route, superb climbing.
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Show beta
βeta: Outstanding route, superb climbing.

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Route of Interest

Shaft of a Dead Man

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))