UKH

The classic line of the crag which takes the right arete of Eden buttress. Start at the foot of the right-hand rib, just left of Eden Gully. Sustained and sometimes exposed climbing which can feel like S or VS depending on the line that you take. If you want an easier ride, stick to the arete and don't be drawn moth-like to the adjacent 4c grooves.

J M Thomson and party 1911.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate HS ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes

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User Date Notes
Rob Evans 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't go from Fron, approach took two hours with loads of heather bashing. Approach from Betws Garmon would be far more easy!!!!
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βeta: Don't go from Fron, approach took two hours with loads of heather bashing. Approach from Betws Garmon would be far more easy!!!!
Tony Ryland 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock in places, test it before pulling on it
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βeta: Loose rock in places, test it before pulling on it
steveshaking 31 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We had a faller caused by lose rock. Generally the rock is sound. But I guess a high route that doesn't get much traffic is always going to accumulate lose rock. Worth being cautious on.
βeta?
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βeta: We had a faller caused by lose rock. Generally the rock is sound. But I guess a high route that doesn't get much traffic is always going to accumulate lose rock. Worth being cautious on.
Butty 25 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic mountain route, good rock and gear. Scramble up the grassy gully to the left then cut back higher up via a rightward ramp to the first rib. Top pitch fantastic but all 3 pitches are good. I used the approach details from Garry smith scrambles book for Bear Buttress, so simple,nice enough walk in...1hr
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic mountain route, good rock and gear. Scramble up the grassy gully to the left then cut back higher up via a rightward ramp to the first rib. Top pitch fantastic but all 3 pitches are good. I used the approach details from Garry smith scrambles book for Bear Buttress, so simple,nice enough walk in...1hr
a_m154 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some initial heather bashing led us to a complicated buttress where everything potentially looked like the route. If in doubt, go further left! All worth the shenanigans as the top three pitches are glorious and we were totally isolated on a mad BH weekend.
βeta?
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βeta: Some initial heather bashing led us to a complicated buttress where everything potentially looked like the route. If in doubt, go further left! All worth the shenanigans as the top three pitches are glorious and we were totally isolated on a mad BH weekend.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Cwm Du

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 15
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Cracks

Grade: HS 4c ***
(Dinas Mot)

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