A fine but underrated Tremadog outing. Start at the base of the buttress, just to the right of the prominent slabby corner with a wide crack.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the slab, passing a small overlap, to reach the large roof. Scuttle right and then up around the roof. Move left to the stance on the nose as for Valerie's Rib.
2) 5a, 25m. Move up and right to gain a sloping groove leading up right. At its end climb direct up to gain a hanging slab. Move back left towards the tree belay on Valerie's Rib.
3) 15m Scramble up and right to belay by a tree by a rock scar.
4) 5c, 22m. Traverse right across the rock scar to the base of a flake/groove. Layback up this and then take the smooth slab leading up and right to a small ledge. The steep wall and groove above provide an exposed finale. Top out left up the easier wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The old fixed gear on the crux pitch is no longer, making this quite a bit bolder than it used to be (top end e2, possibly e3). Take care with potential loose rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
The Tremadog 'V's' , North Wales Rock Graded List , Tremadog 2018/2019
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