UKH

Rockfax Description
A fine but underrated Tremadog outing. Start at the base of the buttress, just to the right of the prominent slabby corner with a wide crack.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the slab, passing a small overlap, to reach the large roof. Scuttle right and then up around the roof. Move left to the stance on the nose as for Valerie's Rib.
2) 5a, 25m. Move up and right to gain a sloping groove leading up right. At its end climb direct up to gain a hanging slab. Move back left towards the tree belay on Valerie's Rib.
3) 15m Scramble up and right to belay by a tree by a rock scar.
4) 5c, 22m. Traverse right across the rock scar to the base of a flake/groove. Layback up this and then take the smooth slab leading up and right to a small ledge. The steep wall and groove above provide an exposed finale. Top out left up the easier wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The old fixed gear on the crux pitch is no longer, making this quite a bit bolder than it used to be (top end e2, possibly e3). Take care with potential loose rock as mentioned in the guidebook.

Ticklists

The Tremadog 'V's' , North Wales Rock Graded List , Tremadog 2018/2019

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lankcroft 1 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: One of the two pegs is now gone (the upper one). This protected the crux i think. I got a fair few small wires/brass/micro cams instead which felt fine, but I'm 6'5" and it was a stretch to get some of them!
Show beta
βeta: One of the two pegs is now gone (the upper one). This protected the crux i think. I got a fair few small wires/brass/micro cams instead which felt fine, but I'm 6'5" and it was a stretch to get some of them!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Suicide Wall Route 1

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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