UKH

70m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route which makes the most of the broad rib at the left end of the crag. Start on the left-hand side of the buttress.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb up a slim groove and make a hard pull up onto a break. Head rightwards across this to a memorable final traverse right onto a ledge on the nose.
2) 4b, 20m. Move up the right-hand side of the rib and step left into a small crack. Head up towards a tower. Balancy moves over this lead to easier moves towards a crack. Finish up the short crack. The belay is well back on the large tree.
3) 30m. Move right along the ledge and climb an easy slab to the left of a vegetated bay. At the top of the slab, step right into the bay and move diagonally across it to the top-right corner. Climb the crack above to a tree and then follow a final crack and slabs to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Tremadog 'V's' , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Solos , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 50 more great HS routes , North Wales Summer 21' , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List

Feedback

User Date Notes
dynoseb 20 May Show βeta
βeta: Linked pitch 1 & 2 together into one mega 40m or so pitch to the garden ledge. Highly recommend this, just manage your ropes properly and it\'ll be fine. Great climbing on clean unvegetated rock, just follow the rib directly once on it flitting back and forth a little in places to maintain upwards progress. Don\'t go too far right otherwise you\'ll end up on the E2 Valor.
Show beta
βeta: Linked pitch 1 & 2 together into one mega 40m or so pitch to the garden ledge. Highly recommend this, just manage your ropes properly and it'll be fine. Great climbing on clean unvegetated rock, just follow the rib directly once on it flitting back and forth a little in places to maintain upwards progress. Don't go too far right otherwise you'll end up on the E2 Valor.
simoncov 4 May Show βeta
βeta: It appears that the (optional) P1 belay tree mentioned in older guides on the foot-ledge above the nose is long gone. Either that or I was on completely the wrong buttress. Topo line in old RockFax Pokketz also seems too far right, newer guide says start higher-up left and traverse right, which seems more sensible.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It appears that the (optional) P1 belay tree mentioned in older guides on the foot-ledge above the nose is long gone. Either that or I was on completely the wrong buttress. Topo line in old RockFax Pokketz also seems too far right, newer guide says start higher-up left and traverse right, which seems more sensible.
Evak 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. I found the 1st pitch harder than 2nd.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. I found the 1st pitch harder than 2nd.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Votes cast 210
High 4c
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High 4b
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Votes cast 113
Votes cast 195
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manx Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)

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