UKH

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great climbing up and left of the huge fang. Start at the top of the gully.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a crack to a pinnacle. Move left and climb a corner onto the arete. Move back right above the steepening and climb the corner to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 32m. Climb the wall on the left, then make hard moves round the arete onto the wall. Step left again then up and back right to reach the upper slab. Thin balancy climbing leads up this with small/micro-wires for protection. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales HVS , Definitive *** Tremadog , 32 By 32 , North Wales Summer 21' , Bold Tradprenticeship , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List

Feedback

User Date Notes
higherclimbingwales 20 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The description for p2 is better in the Steve Long Guidebook - you need to step up from the belay, place a pretty good sz1 nut in the thin crack and step back down to get around the corner. The top pitch is bold but what gear there is is pretty good. Double ropes are a very good idea.
Show beta
βeta: The description for p2 is better in the Steve Long Guidebook - you need to step up from the belay, place a pretty good sz1 nut in the thin crack and step back down to get around the corner. The top pitch is bold but what gear there is is pretty good. Double ropes are a very good idea.
jeanclaudehandjam 9 May Show βeta
βeta: Pitch2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch2
ipfreely 18 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arĂȘte to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arĂȘte to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route
alex.murray 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward
Andy Moles 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now?
MikePycroft 16 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now?

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 234
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 217
Votes cast 209
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whillan's Crack

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Rhinog Fawr South Faces)

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