Rockfax Description
A thrutchy chimney leading to more open climbing above. Start below the chimney.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the chimney - harder inside, easier, but bolder outside. From the top of the chimney step left and climb the flake and wall to a belay at the base of a big flake/pinnacle.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the flake/pinnacle then make hard moves left past a polished and often-damp crack to a fin. Move up and right to gain a shallow groove. Climb this to its end and then move right onto the final slab. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
No longer climbable after significant rock removal. Now climbed as Momentum E2 6a.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , MIA logbook must haves! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , High Quality Adventure routes , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
treesrockice | 14 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Shadrach or something similar at VS looks like it would still be possible by starting up the first pitch of Emily Street going left before the crux, or going up Meshach and not traversing left. Finding a top pitch at about VS looks probable by going up a crack between the ledge where the block was and the line of Blinkers then heading right to join what has always been the final part of the line into the corner and up. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Shadrach or something similar at VS looks like it would still be possible by starting up the first pitch of Emily Street going left before the crux, or going up Meshach and not traversing left. Finding a top pitch at about VS looks probable by going up a crack between the ledge where the block was and the line of Blinkers then heading right to join what has always been the final part of the line into the corner and up. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gwern Graig Rock)