Rockfax Description
A superb route with exposed climbing at a reasonable grade. The most popular route in Wales (according to UKC Logbooks), hence often busy. Start at the base of Vector Buttress below a short steep groove with a large tree on a ledge on the left.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb blocks to a large tree. Traverse left for 5m behind the tree and move up ledges to a flake. Climb left into the base of a short groove. Move up the groove exiting right and head on to a ledge and belay on a massive flake.
2) 4c, 30m. Step up and left around the corner (possible belay here if crowded). Climb up cracks to memorable moves up and right to a small ledge and spike above the roof. Climb up the slab via some small ledges until level with a crack/niche on the right. Move right into it and then climb up this, the crux being the final step onto the slab above, which leads up to another stance on the right below and left of the final flake pitch.
3) 15m. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely-looking flake hanging in space. Mantel onto the ledge - optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top of the crag proper. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1. has significantly changed since the loss of a huge block. This pitch is now 4c with two methods of attack. One is to climb the scarred groove directly (some small wires) or from climb the arete to the right (good small cams in the break). The second method is easier but bolder.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , My List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , 2016 Targets , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , University of Exeter must tick's , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , York University Students path to greatness , Definitive *** Tremadog , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 2020/21 Trips , North Wales Summer 21' , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes , Wales Trip - 2022 , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , UWTSD Rock

Feedback Always Hide βeta