Rockfax Description
A superb route with exposed climbing at a reasonable grade. The most popular route in Wales (according to UKC Logbooks), hence often busy. Start at the base of Vector Buttress below a short steep groove with a large tree on a ledge on the left.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb blocks to a large tree. Traverse left for 5m behind the tree and move up ledges to a flake. Climb left into the base of a short groove. Move up the groove exiting right and head on to a ledge and belay on a massive flake.
2) 4c, 30m. Step up and left around the corner (possible belay here if crowded). Climb up cracks to memorable moves up and right to a small ledge and spike above the roof. Climb up the slab via some small ledges until level with a crack/niche on the right. Move right into it and then climb up this, the crux being the final step onto the slab above, which leads up to another stance on the right below and left of the final flake pitch.
3) 15m. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely-looking flake hanging in space. Mantel onto the ledge - optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top of the crag proper. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1. has significantly changed since the loss of a huge block. This pitch is now 4c with two methods of attack. One is to climb the scarred groove directly (some small wires) or from climb the arete to the right (good small cams in the break). The second method is easier but bolder.
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , My List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , 2016 Targets , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , University of Exeter must tick's , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , York University Students path to greatness , Definitive *** Tremadog , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 2020/21 Trips , North Wales Summer 21' , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes , Wales Trip - 2022 , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , UWTSD Rock
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jonnylad123 | 21 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Mega route, big exposure! First pitch is ridiculous now, with a big commitment. Warms you up for later in the climb. Great to get it done ✅ Led P1 & P3 | ||
Show beta
βeta: Mega route, big exposure! First pitch is ridiculous now, with a big commitment. Warms you up for later in the climb. Great to get it done ✅ Led P1 & P3 |
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Rob Jarratt | 17 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: No nest now. It's a stretch to say the traverse on P1 is 5m long, I ended up straying onto Hail Bebe as a result. Really you go up the wall just left of the tree. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: No nest now. It's a stretch to say the traverse on P1 is 5m long, I ended up straying onto Hail Bebe as a result. Really you go up the wall just left of the tree. |
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Moacs | 19 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bypassed the nest by heading up and right and then back left at a higher level before stepping down to rejoin the traverse to the groove. Probably 5a and not for a nervous second, but avoided using the EpiPen! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bypassed the nest by heading up and right and then back left at a higher level before stepping down to rejoin the traverse to the groove. Probably 5a and not for a nervous second, but avoided using the EpiPen! |
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gaz_jones | 16 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I can confirm the bee/wasp nest is still very active. I got stung on the head while gearing up......quickly moved on. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I can confirm the bee/wasp nest is still very active. I got stung on the head while gearing up......quickly moved on. |
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Rich A-Wilkes | 9 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There’s currently a very active bee/wasp nest in the base of the large tree at the start of P1. Probably best avoided for now. 09 July 22 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There’s currently a very active bee/wasp nest in the base of the large tree at the start of P1. Probably best avoided for now. 09 July 22 |
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C Witter | 16 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The section where there has been some rock fall is now a little unnerving and 4c. It's possible to build a belay just below/level with it on a small stance. I would say: "Taking care with some suspect rock, bridge up the scoop of the rock scar and pull right around the arete at the top to gain the belay ledge." | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The section where there has been some rock fall is now a little unnerving and 4c. It's possible to build a belay just below/level with it on a small stance. I would say: "Taking care with some suspect rock, bridge up the scoop of the rock scar and pull right around the arete at the top to gain the belay ledge." |
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Butty | 13 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch only due to weather, finished up Hail bege.... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch only due to weather, finished up Hail bege.... |
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Dom Roe | 17 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Got a corker of an ascent today, coupled with a classic Tremadog sunset from the top... However, the corner crack/short groove on pitch 2 is no longer to be found on route, instead it's now located somewhere in the forest on the ground. No harder on the lead, just different! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Got a corker of an ascent today, coupled with a classic Tremadog sunset from the top... However, the corner crack/short groove on pitch 2 is no longer to be found on route, instead it's now located somewhere in the forest on the ground. No harder on the lead, just different! |
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Jack Doyle | 14 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: VS climbing on MCI training | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: VS climbing on MCI training |
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ledarville | 22 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bees nest in the tree at the start of first pitch was still active on Friday, but they were pretty contained around the front of the tree and the route goes around the back. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The bees nest in the tree at the start of first pitch was still active on Friday, but they were pretty contained around the front of the tree and the route goes around the back. |
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Neston Climber | 16 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfall has changed pitch one, will not match description in older books. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Rockfall has changed pitch one, will not match description in older books. |
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Andy S | 5 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch now solid 4c, maybe even 5a. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch now solid 4c, maybe even 5a. |
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c00kie | 25 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Highly active bees nest on P1 at the base of the tree (on that day anyway). Had to abandon the route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Highly active bees nest on P1 at the base of the tree (on that day anyway). Had to abandon the route. |
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R Brown | 27 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: P2 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: P2 |
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Cat_McK | 21 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock on pitch 1 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock on pitch 1 |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Glyder Fawr)