A fun way up the best cliff at Tremadog. Pitch 2 is a bit of a mud-fest, but is more than compensated for by the upper pitches. The final teeter along the flake is a feast of exposure. Start below Vector Buttress and move down and round to the left from the start of One Step in the Clouds to below a rising line of weakness.1) 10m. Climb directly up the steep blocky groove to an awkward exit rightwards to gain the huge tree and a ledge.2) 20m. Traverse left from the tree along the ledge, passing a single awkward step to gain a muddy, grassy ledge. Follow this for 10m to gain a good tree belay. 3) 25m. Climb cracks directly above the belay to gain some good tree-root holds and a commodious tree (possible belay). Climb the crack straight above the tree with a tough move to gain the ledge at the top. Move right and teeter up the slab to another tree belay.4) 18m. Traverse right from the belay to gain slabby ground out on the nose and a junction with One Step in the Clouds. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely-looking flake hanging in space. Mantel on to the ledge - optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top. © Rockfax
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Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs
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Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse
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Grade: VD ***
(Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen))
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