Direct but not very grim, unless someone abseils on your head, which does happen! Start right of the vegetated gully, at the first flattening on the approach path, past the base of Void.
1) 5b, 30m. Move up to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to the top and move up and left onto a slab. Traverse left to a steepening and move up a faint groove over the bulge to another slab. Move up the slab to a flake/crack on the left and continue up a small rib to its right into a bay below another steepening. Move up and left over this before stepping back right to a tree belay.
2) 5b, 25m. Head straight up and make a committing move up the wall to gain easier climbing that leads to a roof in a right-facing groove. Move right around the roof and into the upper groove and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
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