Rockfax Description
The vegetated bay has a couple of decent routes. The first tackles the open groove/chimney at the bottom of a long slab that leads down from the Merlin headwall.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the left side of the groove to reach a ramp. Go up here to a tree belay in a groove.
2) 5c, 18m. Move onto the ramp and up to a pedestal just left of a groove heading up the steep wall. Move up and left to climb the crack rightwards to a 'Damoclean' overlap (you'll know what this is when you get there). Pull over right into a groove and climb this to a ledge belay on the edge of the buttress.
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and right to a crack, and then traverse a line of weakness across the wall to gain the main corner.
4) 5c, 12m. Climb the left-hand corner with difficulty. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The vegetated bay has a couple of decent routes. The first tackles the open groove/chimney at the bottom of a long slab that leads down from the Merlin headwall.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the left side of the groove to reach a ramp. Go up here to a tree belay in a groove.
2) 5c, 18m. Move onto the ramp and up to a pedestal just left of a groove heading up the steep wall. Move up and left to climb the crack rightwards to a Damoclean overlap (you'll know what this is when you get there). Pull over right into a groove and climb this to a ledge belay on the edge of the buttress.
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and right to a crack, and then traverse a line of weakness across the wall to gain the main corner.
4) 5c, 12m. Climb the left-hand corner with difficulty.
Ticklists
Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Tremadog 2018/2019
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LucaC | 13 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The belay marked at the top of p2 on the rockfax topo is wrong (unless you like single wire belays). Carry on climbing up the wall for another 5m to a selection of cracked blocks and a hanging stance on a small ledge level with the start of the p3 traverse. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The belay marked at the top of p2 on the rockfax topo is wrong (unless you like single wire belays). Carry on climbing up the wall for another 5m to a selection of cracked blocks and a hanging stance on a small ledge level with the start of the p3 traverse. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Ten Degrees North
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Mot)