A magnificent climb that builds to a stunning and very exposed crack pitch on the headwall.
1) 5a, 15m. As for Vector.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb up, then pull left and tackle a short steep groove left of a jutting nose. Urgent moves through this lead with relief to a small ledge and a groove shared with Nimbus. Follow this to the Vector cave stance.
3) 4b, 10m. Continue along the same diagonal line to a belay below the headwall.
4) 6a, 15m. Head up a crack and step left into a small groove. Move up this to gain the crack in the headwall. Charge up this and make a powerful move out left to improving holds leading leftwards to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The exposed top pitch up the middle of the headwall is sustained and out there but well protected and not too hard technically if you don't let the exposure get to you. (Using 150ft ropes & careful rope work it is possible to do the first 3 pitches as 1 with very little drag)
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