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Rockfax Description
A superb pitch packed with excellent holds and climbing and with the added benefit of a solid finish. One of Swanage's best HVSs. Move up the wall on great holds to a flake at 10m, before climbing rightwards on steeper ground to gain the fault-line (possible belay). Gain the steep wall on the left above the fault-line and take this to an overhang. Go left and up into a shallow corner with difficulty, before easier bridging and crack climbing finishes this memorable pitch. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. R.J.Crewe, P.Charman 10/Feb/1974.

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, SPA Training Minimum Requirement, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Dorset, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 5 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Rock quality is excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock quality is excellent.
Mike Weatherill 4 Aug Show βeta
βeta: 3* climbing on 0* rock quality
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3* climbing on 0* rock quality
Jimbob64 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Due to re-fencing the stile mentioned in the Rockfax guide is no longer there. There is a fence post that is different to the rest with some blue spray painted letters on top: this is where to jump over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Due to re-fencing the stile mentioned in the Rockfax guide is no longer there. There is a fence post that is different to the rest with some blue spray painted letters on top: this is where to jump over.
AJ007 30 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not as good as finale Groove! The line is just not as continuous and a little easier. I think this is the easiest HVS I have ever climbed, I wont argue about the grade though because it is a tiny bit awkward to protect due to strange shaped cracks. Great adventure, especially if you scamper across from Guillemot Ledge (calm seas, and low tide only).
βeta?
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βeta: Not as good as finale Groove! The line is just not as continuous and a little easier. I think this is the easiest HVS I have ever climbed, I wont argue about the grade though because it is a tiny bit awkward to protect due to strange shaped cracks. Great adventure, especially if you scamper across from Guillemot Ledge (calm seas, and low tide only).
clipskipper 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Actually, that should have been 'ab rope to the right'!.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Actually, that should have been 'ab rope to the right'!.
clipskipper 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Can easily ab in from just above the route. Lovely quiet spot in the sun, so your gear's safe. Need to make sure the ab is to the left though (or the tide is out)! Oh, and a lovely route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can easily ab in from just above the route. Lovely quiet spot in the sun, so your gear's safe. Need to make sure the ab is to the left though (or the tide is out)! Oh, and a lovely route.
Owen W-G 8 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, steep and sustained on massive holds. Comparable in quality to Finale Groove, but a tad easier. Optional lie down rest at the half-height break. Best approached across the boulders from Guillemot east.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, steep and sustained on massive holds. Comparable in quality to Finale Groove, but a tad easier. Optional lie down rest at the half-height break. Best approached across the boulders from Guillemot east.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 55
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Maypole

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)