Rockfax Description
An outstanding pitch packed with excellent holds and climbing and with the added benefit of a solid finish. One of Swanage's best HVSs. Move up the wall on great holds to a flake at 10m, before climbing rightwards on steeper ground to reach the faultline (possible belay). Gain the steep wall on the left above the faultline and take this to an overhang. Go left and up into a shallow corner with difficulty, before easier bridging and crack climbing finishes this memorable pitch. © Rockfax
FA. R.J.Crewe, P.Charman 10/Feb/1974.
Ticklists
Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , SPA Training Minimum Requirement , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiddie68 | 8 Feb |
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βeta: Great route but would be exhausting as on-sight single pitch. Sustained after faultline. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route but would be exhausting as on-sight single pitch. Sustained after faultline. |
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| luke43 | 23 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Classic | βeta? | |
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βeta: Classic |
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| Graeme Hammond | 5 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Rock quality is excellent. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rock quality is excellent. |
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| Mike Weatherill | 4 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: 3* climbing on 0* rock quality | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3* climbing on 0* rock quality |
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| Jimbob64 | 23 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Due to re-fencing the stile mentioned in the Rockfax guide is no longer there. There is a fence post that is different to the rest with some blue spray painted letters on top: this is where to jump over. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Due to re-fencing the stile mentioned in the Rockfax guide is no longer there. There is a fence post that is different to the rest with some blue spray painted letters on top: this is where to jump over. |
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| AJ007 | 30 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Not as good as finale Groove! The line is just not as continuous and a little easier. I think this is the easiest HVS I have ever climbed, I wont argue about the grade though because it is a tiny bit awkward to protect due to strange shaped cracks. Great adventure, especially if you scamper across from Guillemot Ledge (calm seas, and low tide only). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not as good as finale Groove! The line is just not as continuous and a little easier. I think this is the easiest HVS I have ever climbed, I wont argue about the grade though because it is a tiny bit awkward to protect due to strange shaped cracks. Great adventure, especially if you scamper across from Guillemot Ledge (calm seas, and low tide only). |
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| clipskipper | 20 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Actually, that should have been 'ab rope to the right'!. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Actually, that should have been 'ab rope to the right'!. |
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| clipskipper | 20 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Can easily ab in from just above the route. Lovely quiet spot in the sun, so your gear's safe. Need to make sure the ab is to the left though (or the tide is out)! Oh, and a lovely route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can easily ab in from just above the route. Lovely quiet spot in the sun, so your gear's safe. Need to make sure the ab is to the left though (or the tide is out)! Oh, and a lovely route. |
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| Owen W-G | 8 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: An excellent route, steep and sustained on massive holds. Comparable in quality to Finale Groove, but a tad easier. Optional lie down rest at the half-height break. Best approached across the boulders from Guillemot east. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, steep and sustained on massive holds. Comparable in quality to Finale Groove, but a tad easier. Optional lie down rest at the half-height break. Best approached across the boulders from Guillemot east. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Cormorant Ledge
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Lightning Wall
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)