Suffered from a rock fall and now loose and unstable although it has been climbed since the rock fall. It was the finest pitch at Compass Point and one of the Culm Coast's enduring classics. Start right of the earth ramp below a large pocket at 4m. Easily gain a massive pocket and then climb to a peg up and to the left. Continue up with conviction to another large pocket and peg. Move out of the pocket leftwards with difficulty and gain the final shallow pocket, peg. Take the wall above past a further peg to the top. Awkward belays on the backside of the ridge. Descend by scrambling left an abseiling from stakes. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
APRIL 2015 UPDATE - The summit ridge above this has suffered another rock fall and the top section is likely to be unstable. Take great care on this route.
Sustained, delicate slab climbing makes this the pick of the routes at Compass Point. Starting under the overhangs on the right of the slab, link the larger and smaller pockets trending leftwards before finishing the top half of the slab direct. Protected mostly by pegs, small nuts and cams are useful, as are larger gear for the belay.
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Culm Along, Starred routes S-E2, North Devon
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