UKH

Rockfax Description
Practically ungradable, it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the cliff in steps.
1) 9m. Move up behind the monolith and squirm away until you can escape out of the top and belay.
2) 9m. Ascend the chimney, which is no pushover, to belay on a ledge below the final slot.
3) 11m. Face right and slither into the depths of the chimney. Somehow make upwards progress to be reborn through a hole behind a chockstone. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch, Type 2 Fun, Michelle's crack ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes, Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru, Wales with M, Weird and Wonderful

Feedback

User Date Notes
myrddinmuse 23 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: To put it simply, I'm (too) fat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To put it simply, I'm (too) fat.
Moody Loner 29 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
Show beta
βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
Tadams 23 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
Show beta
βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
PastyBoy84 14 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tennis Shoe

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))
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