20m. The striking, golden arete between Brant Direct and Cockblock.
Climb the arete directly to gain a shallow groove. At the top of this, rock out right on a good foothold to join Cockblock at the wire slot.
Summon up everything you've got then head straight on up the arete via increasingly hard moves until a final, balancey slap gains a good jug just inside the 'safe zone'.
Much easier climbing leads to the belay on the big ledge.

Alex Mason, unseconded 28/Oct/2018.

Ticklists

Pokey welsh puppies , Potential North Wales E8+ Headpoints

Feedback

User Date Notes
Moza 3 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There's a way to escape out left higher up (7B+) but the true line carries on slapping the arete w LH. With the Cockblock start I reckon it's one of the best routes around, amazing from bottom to top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a way to escape out left higher up (7B+) but the true line carries on slapping the arete w LH. With the Cockblock start I reckon it's one of the best routes around, amazing from bottom to top.
Andy Moles 20 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Outstanding climbing, every move is brilliant. For max quality I think it's best to start up Cockblock to the slots, probably makes no difference to overall difficulty but the independent start feels a bit squeezed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Outstanding climbing, every move is brilliant. For max quality I think it's best to start up Cockblock to the slots, probably makes no difference to overall difficulty but the independent start feels a bit squeezed.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Grochan

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Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
Votes cast 4
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pushing For Rail

Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)

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