75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic outing taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a scramble up the gully/chimney.
1) 4b, 22m. Climb the groove, taking the left branch until you reach a niche 2m below the capping roof. Arrange some gear and make a balancy move back right to regain the main groove-system and belay almost immediately on a small ledge below a steepening.
2) 4a, 22m. Follow the corner-crack which soon slabs off and leads up to a large ledge and block belay.
3) 4b, 20m. Step down from the belay and pull left onto the steep wall. Stand up and get established in the small groove, before traversing left on good holds to the base of another groove. Follow this up to a ledge. Belay to the left on the tree. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Its a lovely climb but the rock is pretty rotten on pitch 3, with some really loose large blocks which unfortunately also look like lovely inviting hand holds! Not hard, just a little scary because of this.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , 2021 , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Roadtrip , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Llidberis , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales

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User Date Notes
Olly Chapman 4 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: After work catch up with Owen
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After work catch up with Owen
Bruise Apprentice 2 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The loose spike just after the start of P3 is still merrily wobbling away.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The loose spike just after the start of P3 is still merrily wobbling away.
kylelewin 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose on the 3rd pitch. Take care pulling up after stepping left from the belay - large loose block!
Show beta
βeta: Very loose on the 3rd pitch. Take care pulling up after stepping left from the belay - large loose block!
Paulos87 14 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block starting 3rd pitch
Show beta
βeta: Loose block starting 3rd pitch
Dohnny_Jawes 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold when stepping onto the wall from 2nd belay
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose hold when stepping onto the wall from 2nd belay
simoncov 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose blocks on the right as you start P3 should be avoided and care is needed over the loose rubble on the top ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose blocks on the right as you start P3 should be avoided and care is needed over the loose rubble on the top ledge.

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Grochan

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 204
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 192
Votes cast 173
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Doom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))

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