Rockfax Description
A classic outing taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a scramble up the gully/chimney.
1) 4b, 22m. Climb the groove, taking the left branch until you reach a niche 2m below the capping roof. Arrange some gear and make a balancy move back right to regain the main groove-system and belay almost immediately on a small ledge below a steepening.
2) 4a, 22m. Follow the corner-crack which soon slabs off and leads up to a large ledge and block belay.
3) 4b, 20m. Step down from the belay and pull left onto the steep wall. Stand up and get established in the small groove, before traversing left on good holds to the base of another groove. Follow this up to a ledge. Belay to the left on the tree. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Its a lovely climb but the rock is pretty rotten on pitch 3, with some really loose large blocks which unfortunately also look like lovely inviting hand holds! Not hard, just a little scary because of this.
Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , 2021 , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Roadtrip , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Llidberis , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Olly Chapman | 4 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: After work catch up with Owen | βeta? | |
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βeta: After work catch up with Owen |
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Bruise Apprentice | 2 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: The loose spike just after the start of P3 is still merrily wobbling away. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The loose spike just after the start of P3 is still merrily wobbling away. |
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kylelewin | 13 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Very loose on the 3rd pitch. Take care pulling up after stepping left from the belay - large loose block! | ||
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βeta: Very loose on the 3rd pitch. Take care pulling up after stepping left from the belay - large loose block! |
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Paulos87 | 14 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Loose block starting 3rd pitch | ||
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βeta: Loose block starting 3rd pitch |
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Dohnny_Jawes | 25 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Loose hold when stepping onto the wall from 2nd belay | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose hold when stepping onto the wall from 2nd belay |
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simoncov | 6 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Some loose blocks on the right as you start P3 should be avoided and care is needed over the loose rubble on the top ledge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some loose blocks on the right as you start P3 should be avoided and care is needed over the loose rubble on the top ledge. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))