UKH

75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic outing taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a scramble up the gully/chimney.
1) 4b, 22m. Climb the groove, taking the left branch until you reach a niche 2m below the capping roof. Arrange some gear and make a balancy move back right to regain the main groove-system and belay almost immediately on a small ledge below a steepening.
2) 4a, 22m. Follow the corner-crack which soon slabs off and leads up to a large ledge and block belay.
3) 4b, 20m. Step down from the belay and pull left onto the steep wall. Stand up and get established in the small groove, before traversing left on good holds to the base of another groove. Follow this up to a ledge. Belay over left on the tree. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Its a lovely climb but the rock is pretty rotten on pitch 3, with some really loose large blocks which unfortunately also look like lovely inviting hand holds! Not hard, just a little scary because of this.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Menlove Routes, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis, 2021, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge, Welsh Roadtrip

Feedback

User Date Notes
kylelewin 13 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Very loose on the 3rd pitch. Take care pulling up after stepping left from the belay - large loose block!
βeta?
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βeta: Very loose on the 3rd pitch. Take care pulling up after stepping left from the belay - large loose block!
Paulos87 14 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block starting 3rd pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Loose block starting 3rd pitch
Dohnny_Jawes 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold when stepping onto the wall from 2nd belay
βeta?
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βeta: Loose hold when stepping onto the wall from 2nd belay
simoncov 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose blocks on the right as you start P3 should be avoided and care is needed over the loose rubble on the top ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose blocks on the right as you start P3 should be avoided and care is needed over the loose rubble on the top ledge.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

Kirkus's Route

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig Lloer)
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