UKH

Rockfax Description
The original route of the East Buttress. It follows a series of huge stepped-corners. Start to the right of the main crack/corner of Sunset Crack at a stepped left-facing groove leading up to the base of the main part of the cliff.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb leftwards over ledges and follow a corner to a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. The rib on the right leads to a break-line that leads right to below a short steep corner. Tricky moves up this gain The Conservatory - a large grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 25m. Climb the corner past a ledge on the right and enter the chimney above - generally easy but steep and intimidating - to belay on the large pillar.
4) 5a, 25m. The stepped corner on the right leads with difficulty to the top. An impressive pitch for its time. © Rockfax

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, The V.S.+ Ticklist, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
JamesWilliams 2 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The gear is alright on this route there are a few stuck hexes and chockstones to sling to supplement a few large cams gold to silver. But it is hard. If you want to learn how to climb corners and jam, forget cenotaph this is it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The gear is alright on this route there are a few stuck hexes and chockstones to sling to supplement a few large cams gold to silver. But it is hard. If you want to learn how to climb corners and jam, forget cenotaph this is it
JoshRawson 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Be aware the top pitch is bloody nails, if you cant jam be prepared to rappel, there are multiple threads about to rappel down
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be aware the top pitch is bloody nails, if you cant jam be prepared to rappel, there are multiple threads about to rappel down

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 23
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grey ArĂȘte

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Glyder Fawr)
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