Rockfax Description
One of the great Cloggy mountaineering routes, with only one technically demanding section up an often-damp corner. Other than this most of the climbing is straightforward. Rope up and scramble up for about 40m, as far as the first weakness through the overhang, by a reddish slab.
1) 4c, 45m. Move up and left to spikes and blocks. Climb onto the slab and arrange gear on the right. Step down and left to the base of a long groove. Follow this, on good holds, to a move left to a good ledge on the arete. Traverse left to a block belay.
2) 4a, 12m. Follow Great-Bow Combination for 12m metres to the first easing on the rib with a prominent diagonal break just above. Step right onto the slab, passing a flake/spike. Carry on traversing right to the corner and climb the grassy gully to a belay below a groove.
3) 4c, 45m. Climb the groove past an often-wet section, crux, and continue up to gain the corner/groove on the left. Follow this to the first grassy moustache and then take a diagonal line leftwards across slabby rock to a belay in the middle of the Great Slab.
4) 4c, 45m. Carry on in the same vein, moving diagonally left to hit the arete and savour the exposure. There are several possible belays here, the best one is higher up.
5) 15m. Climb the easy but sensational arete to the top and scramble out. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , MIA logbook must haves! , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Colin Kirkus' routes , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 2020/21 Trips , 33 By 33 , 2021 , Extreme Rock! , North Wales To Do List , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

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