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Rockfax Description
A brilliant combination of pitches taking the best line up this side of the buttress. Rope up and scramble up for about 40m, as far as the first way through the overhang, by a reddish slab.
1) 4c, 45m. Move up and left to spikes and blocks. Climb onto the slab and arrange gear on the right. Step down and left to the base a long groove. Follow this, on good holds, to a move left to a good ledge on the arete. Traverse left to a block belay.
2) 4a, 25m. Move right across exposed ledges to gain the rib. Climb this in a spectacular situation to a stance.
3) 5a, 35m. There are two options: hard or bold. The harder one is a low traverse to make a difficult pull up to gain the diagonal break. Option 2 is to go high, which is scarier, and foot traverse the break. Continue to a crack which leads to a ledge on the left edge of the slab.
4) 4b, 25m. Steady climbing up a thin crack in the slab edge to another well-positioned stance.
5) 35m. Pull right back onto Great Slab and climb the rib past a possible belay to the top. © Rockfax


Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, North Wales HVS, Hard Rock 2020, Target Routes 2019/2020, Hard Rock, Hard Rock & Other Classics


User Date Notes
Andy Moles 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Goes nicely in 3 pitches with 60m ropes.
Show beta
βeta: Goes nicely in 3 pitches with 60m ropes.
Sean Kelly 26 May, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulously exposed climbing and very direct too! Worth it's 3*s!
Show beta
βeta: Fabulously exposed climbing and very direct too! Worth it's 3*s!

Logged Ascents

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 77
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 76
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Fang

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))