A brilliant combination of pitches taking the best line up this side of the buttress. Rope up and scramble up for about 40m, as far as the first way through the overhang, by a reddish slab.
1) 4c, 45m. Move up and left to spikes and blocks. Climb onto the slab and arrange gear on the right. Step down and left to the base a long groove. Follow this, on good holds, to a move left to a good ledge on the arete. Traverse left to a block belay.
2) 4a, 25m. Move right across exposed ledges to gain the rib. Climb this in a spectacular situation to a stance.
3) 5a, 35m. There are two options: hard or bold. The harder one is a low traverse to make a difficult pull up to gain the diagonal break. Option 2 is to go high, which is scarier, and foot traverse the break. Continue to a crack which leads to a ledge on the left edge of the slab.
4) 4b, 25m. Steady climbing up a thin crack in the slab edge to another well-positioned stance.
5) 35m. Pull right back onto Great Slab and climb the rib past a possible belay to the top. © Rockfax
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