One of the older climbs up the huge curving groove on the right side of the buttress. Something of a traditional thrutch, where crimping ability is never required - wall rats will have a humbling experience. Start on the right-hand side of the pedestal.
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the huge flake to the top of the pedestal via laybacks or jamming.
2) 4c, 20m. Swing left on a jug into the corner-chimney. Thrutch up the crack with a variety of off-width techniques past a steeper more awkward section. Belay on a ledge out left as for Vember.
3) 4c, 35m. Move back into the corner and bridge wildly up, moving back into the depths to arrange protection. Follow this until the right wall starts to form a slab. Move up this before finally gaining the fantastically-exposed arete. Finish up this on good holds to a grassy ledge and belay. Scramble out to finish. © Rockfax
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Classic Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Thrutch and Clutch, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), UK road to wide crack mastery, High Quality Adventure routes, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Colin Kirkus' routes, Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru, 2021, N Wales 2021
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