125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route with a tough and steep second pitch. The more ice the better
1) 2, 30m. Follow the gully until it closes in. Belay below an icy left-wall
2) 5, 30m. The chimney is overcome by strenuous bridging and then a step onto the left wall proper. Climb this to a good belay
3) 3, 35m. Climb over the large chockstone and belay beneath the final exit chimney
4) 3, 30m. Climb the chimney and a steep snow slope to finish. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant icy gully climb. The second crux pitch goes at sustained mixed V 6 if the ice-fall isn't fully formed, or climb Clogwyn Central.

Ticklists

Cold Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Johnathan 18 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed in very lean conditions, backed off after P2 and went for a walk around the Glyders instead. Although the turf was frozen around the buttresses, it wasn\'t frozen deeper in the gully, hence the back out. Good value for money, and will definitely be back for it... with ice screws this time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed in very lean conditions, backed off after P2 and went for a walk around the Glyders instead. Although the turf was frozen around the buttresses, it wasn't frozen deeper in the gully, hence the back out. Good value for money, and will definitely be back for it... with ice screws this time.

Logged Ascents

204 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder

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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 24
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Gully

Grade: IV ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)

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