A classic route with a tough and steep second pitch. The more ice the better
1) 2, 30m. Follow the gully until it closes in. Belay below an icy left-wall
2) 5, 30m. The chimney is overcome by strenuous bridging and then a step onto the left wall proper. Climb this to a good belay
3) 3, 35m. Climb over the large chockstone and belay beneath the final exit chimney
4) 3, 30m. Climb the chimney and a steep snow slope to finish. Belay well back. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant icy gully climb. The second crux pitch goes at sustained mixed V 6 if the ice-fall isn't fully formed, or climb Clogwyn Central.