18m.
Pigeons in the Mist - E3 6a (16 metres)
A short climb, with two difficult problems at it's extremities. Start below the high tide line at the sloping corner to the west of the overhanging nose (as for Bronco). Gain the wall on limpets and a series of horizontal breaks until a flake and a thin vertical crack (a perfect placement for Martin Haycock's missing size 3 Peenut). Make an exposed move left to the arête on sloping holds and continue up the arête to meet Dreamboat Annie, good gear and a welcomed respite. Follow the crystal seam on good feet and small crimps to a three-finger pocket then make another exposed move to gain the top. Finish on the obvious ledge and scramble out.
A short climb, with two difficult problems at it's extremities. Start below the high tide line at the sloping corner to the west of the overhanging nose (as for Bronco). Gain the wall on limpets and a series of horizontal breaks until a flake and a thin vertical crack (a perfect placement for Martin Haycock's missing size 3 Peenut). Make an exposed move left to the arête on sloping holds and continue up the arête to meet Dreamboat Annie, good gear and a welcomed respite. Follow the crystal seam on good feet and small crimps to a three-finger pocket then make another exposed move to gain the top. Finish on the obvious ledge and scramble out.
Nico Jones & Daniel Poole 30/Oct/2013.
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Route of Interest
The Dream
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Great Zawn)