Rockfax Description
A steady first pitch accesses a memorable, exposed traverse on its upper pitch. Start as for The Spider.
1) 4b, 20m. From the ledge at 3m head up the long groove to ledges. Traverse right to a belay below the corner of Scar.
2) 5a, 30m. Make a rising traverse leftwards to reach a short corner on the right side of a block overhang. Move up the corner to gain a ledge above the block overhang. Make an exposed traverse left below a bulge to reach cracks and continue more easily to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fine climb. The exposed crux on P2 with its blind reach around the corner thwarts many aspirants...
FA. F.Cannings 1965.
South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)