Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches - the first requires care and the second is a testing exercise up a wide and overhanging cleft. Start at the base of a broad buttress that has two small caves at 7m.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the steep buttress right of the two small caves on sloping holds to slabby rock, move up the slab and then traverse left to a large ledge. Take the short vertical wall to another large ledge beneath the overhanging corner and belay.
2) 4b, 31m. Climb the corner behind the stance, above a small cave, to where it starts to overhang. Climb the overhanging corner, either up the wide crack or on its right wall - both options are committing. Above, easy climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. N.Hannaby 1960.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Bristol Crack School , Chudleigh Challenge , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Martgib | 21 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch runout, ground-fall potential on easy climbing. Second pitch amazing, almost 3*** | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch runout, ground-fall potential on easy climbing. Second pitch amazing, almost 3*** |
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| ADJ85 | 20 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: led 2nd pitch lovely route, thin on gear low down | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: led 2nd pitch lovely route, thin on gear low down |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Sarcophagus
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)