A popular and interesting route composed of four short but entertaining pitches that are split by accommodating belay ledges. Start at a slim right-facing corner in the middle of the face.1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner and wall via spaced ledges to horizontal breaks. Traverse left and pull onto a belay ledge at the base of a slab.2) 4c, 6m. The intricate, short slab and corner lead to another good ledge with peg and nut belays.3) 5a, 10m. Move above the belay steeply to below an overhang, peg. Move left and gain a small corner above with a bit of a struggle. Continue to a belay on the edge of the buttress at a tree.4) 15m. Follow the cleanest line up the edge of the buttress to the summit of the Western Tower. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It is usual to do this in two pitches. Belaying at the Spider P1 belay ledge is suggested for first timers, but it is also possible to belay post-crux at the tree above.
FA. N.Hannaby 1961.
West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, South West Classic VS's, Chudleigh Challenge, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.
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