Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
Stylish and committing climbing requiring good technique and a set of strong fingers and biceps. Start just left of the cave, below a ledge at 3m.
1) 5b, 15m. Boulder to a ledge at 3m and move up the technical wall above it to a sloping hold and nut. Continue up the wall and through the narrowing groove to a stance on a prow under a steep crack.
2) 5a, 10m. Climb up the steep crack behind the belay and then traverse wildly rightwards using a conspicuous block around the arete to finish direct on good holds. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn 1968.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Chudleigh Challenge , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| chris j | 8 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice and varied route - got a bit of everything. The final swing round the nose is fantastic, though committing to it can be a problem... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice and varied route - got a bit of everything. The final swing round the nose is fantastic, though committing to it can be a problem... |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Incubus
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Sanctuary Wall)