Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
One not to be missed. Two contrasting pitches wend their way up Chudleigh's biggest chunk of limestone. Start just left of a low zig-zag crack at a small corner that leads to a ledge at 3m.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb onto the ledge and take the diagonal crack left to another ledge. Arrange gear and move left and up onto a good hold in the middle of the slab. Some bold moves gain the belay ledge up on the left. Peg and nut belay.
2) 5b, 24m. From the right side of the belay ledge move up to another smaller ledge and take the white wall above to an overhang. Climb steeply around its left side on good holds to a small ledge above. Climb direct above the ledge to a small whitish groove that allows access to the thin crack on the grey headwall, good wires. Work rightwards on thin ground to a tree stump and finish up the easier wall and cracks above. © Rockfax
FA. F.Cannings 15/Jun/1964.
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Bold Tradprenticeship , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Road to lundy
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| richardr | 31 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Was it really THAT bold beofre the peg, good micro placement and another funny nut to give more courage. Still good moves though having not climbed it before the peg maybe I shouldn't comment. Excellent route though. No hard move, just a bit pumpy towards the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Was it really THAT bold beofre the peg, good micro placement and another funny nut to give more courage. Still good moves though having not climbed it before the peg maybe I shouldn't comment. Excellent route though. No hard move, just a bit pumpy towards the top. |
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| psicobloc | 13 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, especially liked the second pitch. First pitch didn't feel bold at all with the new peg, in my humble opinion probably would have been better without. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, especially liked the second pitch. First pitch didn't feel bold at all with the new peg, in my humble opinion probably would have been better without. |
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| Jon W | 23 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: It was all balanced E1 before the peg: a bold easier bit and then harder, well protected. Why do some people think they are doing us all a so called service without actually thinking it through? The first pitch now will be far less memorable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It was all balanced E1 before the peg: a bold easier bit and then harder, well protected. Why do some people think they are doing us all a so called service without actually thinking it through? The first pitch now will be far less memorable. |
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| chris j | 11 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: There was a reasonable RP placement where the peg is... Having the peg there makes the first pitch feel a bit tame. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There was a reasonable RP placement where the peg is... Having the peg there makes the first pitch feel a bit tame. |
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| Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor | 24 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is now a good blade peg just above the ledge on the first pitch which makes sense as a slip from the final moves would these days have ended up in the tree below. (30 years ago there were no trees beneath this route). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is now a good blade peg just above the ledge on the first pitch which makes sense as a slip from the final moves would these days have ended up in the tree below. (30 years ago there were no trees beneath this route). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Fifth Appendage
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)