Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
A lovely climb with an exposed second pitch. Start at the base of a broad buttress with small twin caves at 7m.
1) 4a, 18m. Climb up to and out of the right-hand cave via an awkward move and continue to a large ledge. Take the short vertical wall to another large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 32m. Ascend the square-cut corner (just right of the main corner taken by Scar) for 4m and then move out right to the arete. Step around the arete to a small exposed ledge and climb the face right of the arete to a tree. A short wall above leads to easy climbing and the top. © Rockfax
FA. D.Bassett 1960.
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Neil Stuart | 19 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: The tree on pitch 2 is no more although this does not affect the grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: The tree on pitch 2 is no more although this does not affect the grade |
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Pithedog | 2 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Tree near top of pitch 2 is v.rotten. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tree near top of pitch 2 is v.rotten. |
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Chaman | 27 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Pigeon nesting in cave & birds nesting in Scar\'s crack May 2020 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pigeon nesting in cave & birds nesting in Scar's crack May 2020 |
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Peter271263 | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Good route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)