Restricted Access

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
22m.

Rockfax Description
A challenging pitch that doesn't let up. Start below the hand-crack of Oesophagus. Move up thin cracks to the overhang and boldly swing up and right along a flake to the arete. Move up the arete before traversing a short way left to the foot of a wide crack. Head up the crack and headwall, past a thread, to positive holds and a bolted belay above. Abseil off or finish up easy ground (as for pitch 2 of Combined Ops).
Combined Combat, E2 5c - Start up Combined Ops (p.572) and move left to the upper section of Combat. A fine sustained pitch which avoids the serious start of Combat. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 1971.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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User Date Notes
Davros the Psyched 1 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy.

Logged Ascents

126 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 15 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Ice

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Long Quarry Point)

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