Restricted Access

The Corailized and Road Rage wall have fingery and steep test piece routes best avoided in the heat of the sun and can turn greasy when afternoon shade come on faces. But there is some more humble offering in The Nook and the newly developed area below. Until 2014 there were some moderate graded routes on the  blocky wall left of Corailized but a significant rockfall left the routes scattered across the beach below ( note the staples in blocks as you walk past) as almost blocking of the curious tunnel that the spring flows from.

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding to climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes from high arête left of Coralized wall to and including Dutch Courage. 

You very visible from bird watchers so during restriction access and climb on Rage wall with as little fuss as possible. Can be accessed by abseil from Dunecroft Quarry but walking in and out along boulder beach quietly is also acceptable.  

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding the climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall area in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic stamina test with a debilitating reach near the top - shorties beware. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 30/Apr/1996.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

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User Date Notes
Kris suriyo 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XfdzcBVr0c
Show beta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XfdzcBVr0c
BenNorman 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Beta: come into the large side pull pocket (by the 2ndast draw) with the left hand, slap far right to side pull and then again to good edge in the sandy coloured rock, left hand gaston and then again to jug pocket
Show beta
βeta: Beta: come into the large side pull pocket (by the 2ndast draw) with the left hand, slap far right to side pull and then again to good edge in the sandy coloured rock, left hand gaston and then again to jug pocket
Aaron.Clifford 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5,8-ish and did the reach if that means anything, it was pretty much at the max of my ability but got done with some momentum! Really hard to do this sequence from the ground however so perhaps need to find an alternative.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5,8-ish and did the reach if that means anything, it was pretty much at the max of my ability but got done with some momentum! Really hard to do this sequence from the ground however so perhaps need to find an alternative.
JIMBO 15 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: There are three methods to the crux - one of which is a long reach which can frustrate shorties with endless slapping. However there are two alternatives that are perfectly static for the shorter climber but harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are three methods to the crux - one of which is a long reach which can frustrate shorties with endless slapping. However there are two alternatives that are perfectly static for the shorter climber but harder.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cheyne Cliff

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zen Zero

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Cave Hole)

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