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Rockfax Description
The long standing Cheesewring classic. A serious route that requires good judgement and a cool head. The route seeps for long periods after rainfall, although the alternative direct variation on the second pitch does dry a little quicker but it is no less serious. Start at a large quarry-ring at the very base of the crag.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb up leftwards to a long chain which is used for protection but not as a means of ascent! Belay at the rock ring holding the chain.
2) 4c, 13m. Climb up onto a ledge and then step up to another ledge on the right below a leaning wall. Traverse out right along the ledge to a groove and a good small nut-placement. Move up the groove to good holds, and then traverse back left along a large vegetated ramp to its end and move up to a large belay ledge. Very bold.
2a) E1 5a, 8m. A variation takes the direct line to the second stance past a poor peg, also bold.
3) 4b, 12m. Move rightwards to the base of a line that cuts back left and up a diagonal crack to the top in a fine position. © Rockfax


West Country Climbs, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)


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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 21
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Saxon Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)