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Rockfax Description
Airy climbing featuring a runout wall and a tricky crux. Start at an area of easy-angled water-washed ledges.
1) 9m. Climb easily up sloping ledges to a long grassy ledge and block-belay on the left.
2) 5a, 22m. From the block, move up slightly left to a thin right-slanting flake-crack. Climb this to its end and then climb the bold wall above to below an overlap with twin pegs on the right. Move right past the pegs and make a tricky move up onto a ledge, 'The Balcony'. A couple of steep moves on good holds gain the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A rising traverse to the right arete of the orange slab to the right of the Fortress. 2 pitches but they can be run together although beware of rope drag.

P1: 4b
Begin on the left side of the easy gully (often wet) about 3m right of the start of Traitor's Gate. Scramble up over blocks and grassy ledges to reach a large grassy ledge at the base of the orange slab. Belay on a large boulder.

P2: 5a
Move left along the belay ledge to gain the beginning of the Left to Right diagonal weakness (small wires) and follow to the right arete. Climb the face to a large block on the arete (wires above) and then up and left to gain 2 old pegs (back 'em up). Mantle (tricky when wet) into the niche on the right ands then pull through the bulge above to gain easy ground and the top. Belay on the fence posts.

Variation - P2: 5b
From the two pegs pull up left and then climb through the bulges above.


West Country Climbs


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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wreckin' and Divin'

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Compass Point (Bude))