Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

25m.

Rockfax Description
The open corner on the left of the buttress gives a great outing on good holds with plenty of solid runners after a vegetated start. At the top break, move out left to escape. There may be an abseil station in place; if not, walk round. If you thought it a push-over, consider Aplomb as a suitable extension. © Rockfax

FA. H.Drasdo, G.Mansell 1955.

Ticklists

World Graded List , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Maoweee 13 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Currently no ab station in place. The walk down is unpleasant but very manageable.
βeta?
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βeta: Currently no ab station in place. The walk down is unpleasant but very manageable.
orangesmartie61 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Disappointingly vegetated for a 2/3 star route; now cleaner. Thanks to the team who left a sling and screwgate for the block belay/abseil.
βeta?
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βeta: Disappointingly vegetated for a 2/3 star route; now cleaner. Thanks to the team who left a sling and screwgate for the block belay/abseil.
Green_t 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No fixed belay/ab point at the top- we scrambled left up to a tree with ab tat
βeta?
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βeta: No fixed belay/ab point at the top- we scrambled left up to a tree with ab tat
Summit Sense 25 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Jun 2020 scramble up left 7m into the trees to find the abseil tat
βeta?
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βeta: Jun 2020 scramble up left 7m into the trees to find the abseil tat
Ropeboy 11 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A good(ish) route and an ideal warm up for the other routes on the crag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good(ish) route and an ideal warm up for the other routes on the crag.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 28
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
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Mid 4b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gabriel

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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