Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
The flake is now climbed direct all the way as when the route was first done. At its top, move left and pull up the headwall. There is a poor left-hand finish through the bulges. Slightly easier than the version starting up Beef It but still 7a+. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Lee, Adam Haynes (as an E6 6b) 1982. It was bolted in the mid-90s with a start up Hungry Eyes. Fully bolted in 2020. The flake-line was formerly an aid route..
Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Lime Time , The Festival Of Shite , Peak sport for mortals , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Clare Dean | 26 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Using left-hand bolt line up the crack before traversing right to gain the rest at the thread. Probably makes it a little easier this way but required a bit of cleaning and careful selection of holds to avoid choss. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Using left-hand bolt line up the crack before traversing right to gain the rest at the thread. Probably makes it a little easier this way but required a bit of cleaning and careful selection of holds to avoid choss. |
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teddy | 19 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Now tree has been chopped might be worth reinstating original start as this is the more logical line up the crack. This would mean the end of interference with climbers on Beef it, with which it currently shares the same start (evident of busy weekends). A couple of new bolts would prob be enough... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Now tree has been chopped might be worth reinstating original start as this is the more logical line up the crack. This would mean the end of interference with climbers on Beef it, with which it currently shares the same start (evident of busy weekends). A couple of new bolts would prob be enough... |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)