Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
A great climb. Make a hard fingery start which was originally done on the left - easier, but same grade overall. Continue more easily to the break and a rest. Crank up and left to the final section - right has more holds but straight up has a good flake. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A great climb, no longer with a scary run-out. After a fingery start, continue more easily to the break. The headwall is sustained on crimps and flatties, where good footwork pays dividends. The final bolt is by a good flake to prepare for the finishing moves.
FA. Gary Gibson 1985. Seb Grieve added the direct start..
Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport for mortals , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
User | Date | Notes | ||
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UKB Shark | 2 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Climb to left of first two bolts but otherwise direct is best thereafter despite temptations | ||
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βeta: Climb to left of first two bolts but otherwise direct is best thereafter despite temptations |
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Rig open Alban | 30 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Couple of loose blocs in the break of the rest ledge | βeta? | |
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βeta: Couple of loose blocs in the break of the rest ledge |
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Rachael Ellis | 30 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Tried to flash it, but the start is tricksome. Then punted off the top next go. Lovely route, one of the best 7a\'s around i\'d say! | ||
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βeta: Tried to flash it, but the start is tricksome. Then punted off the top next go. Lovely route, one of the best 7a's around i'd say! |
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Gabe Oliver | 26 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: The square block on the right side of the jug directly above the ledge is no more. Doesn't affect the route at all as there are many other good holds at that point | βeta? | |
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βeta: The square block on the right side of the jug directly above the ledge is no more. Doesn't affect the route at all as there are many other good holds at that point |
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stone elworthy | 28 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: Now has an additional bolt below where the stuck wire used to be and so feels very well bolted. Great safe climbing all the way from start to top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Now has an additional bolt below where the stuck wire used to be and so feels very well bolted. Great safe climbing all the way from start to top. |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)