Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A great climb. Make a hard fingery start which was originally done on the left - easier, but same grade overall. Continue more easily to the break and a rest. Crank up and left to the final section - right has more holds but straight up has a good flake. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A great climb, no longer with a scary run-out. After a fingery start, continue more easily to the break. The headwall is sustained on crimps and flatties, where good footwork pays dividends. The final bolt is by a good flake to prepare for the finishing moves.

FA. Gary Gibson 1985. Seb Grieve added the direct start..

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport for mortals , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
UKB Shark 2 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climb to left of first two bolts but otherwise direct is best thereafter despite temptations
Show beta
βeta: Climb to left of first two bolts but otherwise direct is best thereafter despite temptations
Rig open Alban 30 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of loose blocs in the break of the rest ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couple of loose blocs in the break of the rest ledge
Rachael Ellis 30 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to flash it, but the start is tricksome. Then punted off the top next go. Lovely route, one of the best 7a\'s around i\'d say!
Show beta
βeta: Tried to flash it, but the start is tricksome. Then punted off the top next go. Lovely route, one of the best 7a's around i'd say!
Gabe Oliver 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The square block on the right side of the jug directly above the ledge is no more. Doesn't affect the route at all as there are many other good holds at that point
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The square block on the right side of the jug directly above the ledge is no more. Doesn't affect the route at all as there are many other good holds at that point
stone elworthy 28 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Now has an additional bolt below where the stuck wire used to be and so feels very well bolted. Great safe climbing all the way from start to top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now has an additional bolt below where the stuck wire used to be and so feels very well bolted. Great safe climbing all the way from start to top.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Supercrack (Sport)

Grade: 7a ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)

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