2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best limestone E4s in the country, especially if you include the top pitch.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to a bulge (normally with some rotten stuck wires). Pull past these (old peg) and gain the beckoning flake. Thug your way up this to final taxing moves (the scene of many failures) leading to a belay on a small ledge.
2) 6a, 15m. The steep, and well-protected groove (an old peg and good wires) above is a contrast to the pitch below requiring subtlety rather than brute strength. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock, L.Noble, P.Hutchinson (aid) 11.62. The line they took incorporates Apocalypse P2. FFA. T.Proctor, G.Birtles 1976 after a race against Fawcett and Livesey. Nov/1962.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Good E4s , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chee Tor Extreme Trad , The Festival Of Shite , Lime trad for hobbyists

Feedback

User Date Notes
Somerset swede basher 10 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I've left a sling and crab on the smaller tree to the left of the dead one with the chains. Please use them to back up the chains rather than removing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I've left a sling and crab on the smaller tree to the left of the dead one with the chains. Please use them to back up the chains rather than removing.
Misha 7 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil tree is pretty much dead. Backed it up with a couple of wires 6.7.22 but it needs a couple of bolts really.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The abseil tree is pretty much dead. Backed it up with a couple of wires 6.7.22 but it needs a couple of bolts really.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 36
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Old Friends

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stanage North)

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