Rockfax Description
Beautiful climbing and positions mark out this route as one of West Penwith's most sought-after VSs. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch. Start on a good ledge at a crack on the left wall of East Gully, around 10m up from the bottom of the crag.1) 4a, 14m. Climb the crack to a belay ledge on the left. The ledge is just below where the crack thins.2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the thin crack-system with difficulty, which soon eases, and continue up the crack to a large mushroom shaped blob. Use the blob to move right into a short corner and follow it to a stance on a good ledge.3) 4c, 12m. Take the steep crack above, passing the last bulging section with difficulty. Move left to a stance and belay on a long ledge. 4) 4a, 13m. Move right and up behind a large perched block and follow cracks up a wall to the top of the buttress. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Pre-MIA Wishlist, South West Classic VS's, Definitive *** West Cornwall, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020 Trips
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| alex505c | 6 Oct |
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βeta: The final belay on top of the pinnacle seemed a bit thin on gear — a sling slung tight around a shallow flake groove, backed up with a couple of suboptimal micro-cams. In retrospect it may have been better to set up after/below the pinnacle and deal with some rope drag. Also, we stayed roped up for the descent, as a fall could break some bones and there were a couple of somewhat technical sections. I saw another pair go down a chimney but we traversed landward a bit more, where protection seemed more abundant, especially for the climber who goes first on the downclimb. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: The final belay on top of the pinnacle seemed a bit thin on gear — a sling slung tight around a shallow flake groove, backed up with a couple of suboptimal micro-cams. In retrospect it may have been better to set up after/below the pinnacle and deal with some rope drag. Also, we stayed roped up for the descent, as a fall could break some bones and there were a couple of somewhat technical sections. I saw another pair go down a chimney but we traversed landward a bit more, where protection seemed more abundant, especially for the climber who goes first on the downclimb. |
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| jfms | 23 Jul |
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βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder. |
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Logged Ascents
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Little Brown Jug
Grade: VS 5a ***(Bosigran)