UKH Hills - 'South Face Direct'

59m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Beautiful climbing and positions mark out this route as one of West Penwith's most sought-after VSs. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch. Start on a good ledge at a crack in the left wall of East Gully, around 10m up from the bottom of the crag.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the crack to a belay ledge on the left. The ledge is just below where the crack thins.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb the thin crack system with difficulty, which soon eases, and continue up the crack to a large mushroom shaped blob. Use the blob to move right into a short corner and follow it to a stance on a good ledge.
3) 4c, 12m. Take the steep crack above, passing the last bulging section with difficulty. Move left to a stance and belay on a long ledge.
4) 4a, 13m. Move right and up behind a large perched block and follow cracks up a wall to the top of the buttress. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Pre-MIA Wishlist , South West Classic VS's , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Kernow , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cornwall - October 2023 , Llidberis South West Tour , A.P's summer: England and Wales expansion pack

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User	Date		Notes
whenry	21 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Still guls hanging around at the top of pitch 2, including a juvenile gul with protective dive bombing parents. Might need another week or two to be clear of them.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Still guls hanging around at the top of pitch 2, including a juvenile gul with protective dive bombing parents. Might need another week or two to be clear of them.
duncan	9 Jun	Show βeta βeta: Not formally restricted but several active nests near the route at the moment (22.05.24). Better leave til later in the year?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not formally restricted but several active nests near the route at the moment (22.05.24). Better leave til later in the year?
onthebend	25 May	Show βeta βeta: For the last few years (2022-2024) there have been nesting gulls on the belay ledge at the top of pitch 2 as described here. They seem to have started nesting here again after the COVID 19 lockdown(?). Might be best to avoid this route in the nesting season.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: For the last few years (2022-2024) there have been nesting gulls on the belay ledge at the top of pitch 2 as described here. They seem to have started nesting here again after the COVID 19 lockdown(?). Might be best to avoid this route in the nesting season.
Salvo1	26 Jun, 2023	Show βeta βeta: I led 1st pitch & Andy B led the rest. I had a moment on the hanging belay. (Bloody head). Great climb living up to its expectations. Really nice climbing with varied moves.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I led 1st pitch & Andy B led the rest. I had a moment on the hanging belay. (Bloody head). Great climb living up to its expectations. Really nice climbing with varied moves.
slowmotion	15 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Rockfax description made more sense to me than CC guide	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rockfax description made more sense to me than CC guide
jfms	23 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder.