The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
The first pitch is a fine and pumpy outing. Start at the bottom of the slab, 6m left of the base of the Pegasus corner.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb directly up the slab to reach the base of the steep headwall. Pull up and gain a left-trending wide break and continue up the wall above on good holds to a small overhang. Pull through the small overhang and ascend directly to a stance and belay on a good ledge below a long chimney.
2) 30m. The long chimney/crack is followed all the way to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , HVS Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Peter271263 | 23 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy route. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Geevor)