Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

54m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Although not one of the well known classics of Chair Ladder, this hybrid is a very worthwhile climb that travels across some of the best bits of Bishop's Buttress and finishes up its right arete in a very spectacular position. Start as for Diocese.
1) 4b, 14m. Follow Diocese to the point just before it rejoins the wide corner-crack. Traverse right, around the arete and onward to the first stance of Bishop's Rib.
2) 5a, 25m. Pull over the overhang above and make hard moves up right onto, and up the arete to a wide break. Climb the arete using wide, flared cracks to a good ledge.
3) 20m. Climb easily up and left to the summit of the buttress. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Kernow , Routes for MCI , Cornwall - October 2023

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High E1
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Votes cast 14
High 5b
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Foaming Jugs

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Upton - Arrowhead Pinnacle area)

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