UKH

65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A deservedly popular route following the left edge of the crag, with good gear and belays.
1) 4b, 37m. Climb to a ledge below a small overhang, move up right to a crack before you can make an exposed step left over the roof. Follow the crack to a second overlap and trend right below it to the large ledge. You can scramble off left from here if required.
2) 4a, 24m. Climb the wall above the belay via a flake directly. A bulge provides the crux before a scramble leads to a belay on a terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4b Solo to ledge at the foot of wall with no protection. Climb a sustained crack system to a small roof, move right and then step back up left (crux). Trend rightwards to belay at a huge flake/pinnacle.
2) 4a Move slightly left to climb the steeper than expected slab above the pinnacle to the top

2a) 4c The final pitch of Sun Valley makes an excellent alternative finish, raising the grade to VS. Above the belay and 2m R of the huge pinnacle is a steep, ragged hand crack. Follow this to a quartzy ledge below an overhang, work out how to reach the enticing jugs above and then haul over onto the slab which is followed to the top.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Ultimate HS ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 50 more great HS routes , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack

Feedback

User Date Notes
gazj1986 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitch 2. Found pitch 1 pretty strenuous
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead pitch 2. Found pitch 1 pretty strenuous

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High HVS
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Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
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Votes cast 187
High 5a
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Votes cast 172
Votes cast 179
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Shark's Fin

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Carreg y Foel Gron)

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