Don't be put off by the scrappy start, the traverse under the roof is not to be missed.
1) 4a, 27m. Scramble up to the base of groove to a spike below the large tree (possible belay) and continue up the groove to belay under the roof.
2) 4c, 15m. Make a series of repetitive moves up and rightwards on the series of ledges below the roof until a final committing move round the end of the roof gains a rib. This leads to a tree belay and most people abseil off from here.
3) 8m. Climb easily up leftwards to the ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the rather dirty and vegetated crack to belay just before or at roof. Traverse right ascending to second step and then tricky move around corner on jugs for hands but nothing for feet. Move past tree / abseil point to top
100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Menlove Routes, CUMC Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, 2021
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